Tecumseh engine manual download

Sold by woodworkertools an eBay Marketplace seller. Visit our website at www. Have receipt and manuals… Small engines are used in everything from lawnmowers to motorcycles. One of the most versatile and rugged is the Tecumseh motor. Easy to use and easier to maintain, this motor can run for a long time.

Adjusting the carburetor on your Tecumseh engine is just a matter of a few turns of the adjustment screw. We have manuals, guides and of course parts for common OHVF problems. I replaced the fuel pump, lines, and put on a bowl kit on both carbs. When I spray fuel in the carb it will fire up until that fuel is burnt. I took the carbs back off today. I removed the bowl full of gas and blew out… performance, use only Genuine Tecumseh Parts. Unleaded gasoline burns cleaner, extends engine life, and promotes good starting by reducing the build up of combustion chamber deposits.

Tecumseh engines are built for use in lawnmowers and snow blowers. Common problems that affect the governor on a Tecumseh engine are that the engine runs either too fast or too slow or that the engine surges or hunts.

Some repairs should be left to professionals, but diagnosing the problem with the governor is an easy process for most do-it Amazon.

Skip to main content. Skip to content. You are Here Home January Parts f manual or tecumseh engine t 20hp. Facebook Twitter Pinterest Linkedin. Parts and service manual for massey ferguson Related Posts Part of a kitchen-aid mixer manual January 11, New holland l parts manual January 8, Mainecare eligibility manual part 3 January 4, Install a commercially available spark plug tester and check for spark.

If spark is evident and acceptable, proceed to step 2. If no or weak spark, see Chapter 8 under "Testing". Visually inspect the spark plug for a wet condition indicating the presence of gasoline in the cylinder.

If the spark plug is dry, check for restrictions in the fuel system before the carburetor. If the spark plug is wet, continue with step 7. Check to see if the fuel cap vent is open. With a proper draining receptacle, remove the fuel line clamp on the carburetor fuel inlet and pull the fuel line off the fitting to examine the fuel flow and fuel condition. Remove the air cleaner element or air cleaner assembly to visually check that the choke shutter completely closes or check to see if fuel comes out from the main nozzle during priming.

If the fuel flow is adequate and no fuel is evident during priming, the carburetor will need to be removed for service. The engine may be flooded by a restricted air filter, carbon shorted or defective spark plug, excessive choking or over priming, improperly adjusted or defective carburetor, or the wrong ignition timing.

Install the spark plug and high tension lead and retry starting the engine. If the engine floods and fails to start, the carburetor may require service.

Before adjusting any mixture screws the necessary carburetor presets should be made. Check for the proper governor adjustments as outlined in Chapter 4. Identify the correct carburetor model and manufacturer to find locations of the high and low speed adjustment screws. Check the throttle control bracket for proper adjustment allowing a full choke shutter position. See Chapter 4 under "Speed Controls and Linkage". Check to see if the normal maintenance procedures have been performed oil changed, fresh fuel, air filter replaced or clean.

Consult microfiche card 30 to find the correct R. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. The carburetor can now be adjusted. All adjustments should be Walbro Carburetors made with the carburetor in the operating position. Now back the mixture screws out counterclockwise to LMK Fixed 1 turn obtain the pre-set figure in the chart shown at right. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature 3 - 5 minutes.

From the recommended preset position, turn the main mixture adjustment screw in clockwise slowly until the engine begins to run erratic lean.

Note the position of the screw. Now, turn the screw out counterclockwise until the engine begins to run erratic rich.

Turn the screw in clockwise midway between these two positions. This will be the best setting. Adjust the idle mixture screw following the same procedure used to adjust the main mixture adjustment screw. Recheck the high and low R. Note or mark the high and low mixture adjusting screws to aid in reassembly if applicable.

Remove the high speed adjusting screw, bowl nut, and float bowl. Remove the idle mixture screw assembly. CLIP 2. Remove the float hinge pin with a needlenose pliers. END 28 3. Remove the float, clip, and inlet needle. Remove the throttle shutter, throttle shaft, choke shutter, springs and choke shaft by removing the screw s that attach the throttle or choke shutter to the shaft inside the air horn.

Remove the primer bulb if equipped by grasping it with a pliers and pulling and twisting out of the body. Remove the retainer by prying and lifting it out with a screwdriver. Do not re-use the old bulb or retainer diag. Some Tecumseh float style carburetors have a damper spring which is installed as shown.

Remove all welch plugs if cleaning the carburetor. Note the direction of the inlet fitting. If necessary the 32 inlet fitting can be removed. See page This nozzle is non- metallic and has an "O" ring seal on the top and bottom end of the tube. Do not remove a main nozzle that is made of brass from any Tecumseh carburetor. These are pressed in at the factory to a specific depth.

When removing the nozzle, the top "O" ring may not come out with the tube. The "O" ring must be removed and placed on the nozzle before it is placed back into the center leg or it will not seal properly. If you remove it, a service nozzle with the under cut fuel passage must be installed or problems will occur diag.

Remove the screws holding the diaphragm cover on. Remove the cover, gaskets, and diaphragm noting or marking the sequence or location to aid in reassembly. If no "F" is present, the gasket goes first. Note or mark the high and low mixture adjustment screws. Remove the screw assemblies. Note or mark the action of the choke and throttle shutters and the hook points of the choke or throttle return spring or seal retainer springs located on the top of the choke or throttle shaft.

Note and mark the direction of the inlet fitting. If necessary the inlet fitting can be removed by pulling with a pliers or vise. Some diaphragm carburetors have a strainer as an integral part of the fuel fitting. If the strainer is lacquered or cannot be cleaned, the fitting must be replaced. Secure the carburetor in a vise equipped with protective jaws. Drive the chisel into the plug to pierce the metal, then push down on 37 the chisel to pry the plug out of the hole.

Clean all parts with a solvent and install a new kit which consists of a coil spring, gaskets and diaphragms diag. To check the float height, hold the carburetor in an upside down position. Remove the bowl nut, float bowl, and "O" ring. The float must just touch the drill bit when the bit is flush with the edge of the float. If the float is too high or too low, adjust the height by bending the tab accordingly.

If the required adjustment is minor, the tab adjustment may be made without removing the float and carefully inserting a small bladed screwdriver to bend the tab. Float sticking can occur due to deposits or when the fuel tank is filled for the first time, this condition can be quickly corrected by loosening the carburetor bowl nut one full turn.

After careful disassembly of the carburetor and the removal of all non metallic parts, the carburetor body and all other metallic parts should be cleaned with solvent, or commercial carburetor cleaner, no longer than 30 minutes. Use compressed air and soft tag wire to clean internal carburetor passages.

To do a proper cleaning job, the welch plugs must be removed to expose the drilled passages. NOTE: The nylon check balls used in some diaphragm carburetors are not serviceable. Nylon can be damaged if subjected to harsh cleaners for prolonged periods. Examine the throttle lever and shaft, choke lever and shaft, and carburetor body at the bearing points and holes into which the linkage is fastened, and replace if worn or damaged.

Any looseness in these areas can cause dirt to enter the engine and cause premature wear. If dust seals are present, these should be positioned next to the carburetor body. Tension is maintained on the screw with a coil spring. Examine the tapered surface of the high speed mixture 40 needle. If the tapered surface is damaged or shows wear, replace the needle non-emissioned.

Some Tecumseh carburetors use serviceable jet main nozzles. These are identified as being non-metallic. If a problem occurs with the idle circuit, examine the small fuel passage in the annular groove in the retaining metering nut.

This passage must be clean for the proper transfer of fuel into the idle metering circuit. Torque retaining nut to 50 in. There are two different types of bowl nuts that are used on adjustable main, float style carburetors.

One type has one fuel metering port at the bottom of the nut, and the other has two fuel inlet ports at the bottom of the nut. This difference relates to calibration changes to the carburetor and is dependent on the application diag.

The fuel inlet ports must be free of any debris to allow proper fuel flow. The float bowl must be free of dirt and corrosion.

Clean with solvent or carburetor cleaner. Examine the float for damage. Check the float hinge bearing surfaces for wear, as well as the tab that contacts the inlet needle. Replace any damaged or worn parts. The needle and seat should be replaced if any fuel delivery problems are experienced flooding or starvation.

Sealing problems with the inlet needle seat may not be visible, so replacement is recommended. Inspect diaphragms, gaskets, and primer bulbs for cracks, tears, hardness or brittleness. Replace if necessary. Place the welch plug into the receptacle with the PLUG raised portion up. With a punch equal to, or greater than 42 the size of the plug, merely flatten the plug. Do not dent or drive the center of the plug below the top surface of the carburetor.

After installation of the welch plug, seal the SERIES 1, 6, 8, 9, 10 outer diameter with finger nail polish or equivalent diag. When reassembling, it is important that the lines or lettering on the throttle plate are facing out when in the closed position.

If binding occurs, correct by loosening screws and repositioning throttle plate. Always use a new screw s when reinstalling the throttle shutter Tecumseh screws are treated with dry-type adhesive to secure them in place.

Choke plates will operate in either direction. Make sure it is assembled properly for the engine. Test the operation of the choke and return spring function if equipped diag. Always use a new screw s when reinstalling the choke shutter as the screws are treated with dry-type adhesive to secure them in place. The choke shaft and plate must be in the closed position prior to tightening the screws. Hard starting may be due to insufficient choking action because of a misaligned choke plate. Note the cut-out position of choke shutter if applicable.

Support the carburetor body with a wood block to avoid damage to other parts. Use a bench vise or press to install the fitting squarely. Turn the high speed adjustment screw in approximately one turn into the bowl retainer nut to SPRING make an assembly diag. On hp. Some carburetors are of the fixed main type and would not have a high speed adjusting screw.

Moisten the seat with oil and insert the seat with the grooved side down and away from the inlet needle. To prevent binding, the long, straight end of the clip should face the air intake end of the carburetor as shown diag.

Be sure to drain any fuel into an approved container. Invert the carburetor and remove the float bowl. Using a commercially available psi pump and gauge, attach the pumps hose to the carburetor inlet. The needle should seat at 1. If the minimum 1. The long end of the spring or clip on the inlet needle must point 50 toward the air intake end of the carburetor. If a float dampening spring is used, reassemble using the following steps diag.

Place the float upside down. The ends must point toward the choke end of the carburetor. Hook the inlet needle clip on the inside float tang so the clip end points to the choke end of the carburetor diag. Place the float, float spring, clip and inlet needle in position between the hinge legs of the carburetor. As the float assembly nears the hinge legs, wind the outside end of the spring so it goes to the outside of the leg counterclockwise looking from the choke end.

Install the hinge pin from the opposite hinge leg. The bowl gasket must be positioned over the end of the spring diag.

Set the proper float height. Other diaphragm carburetors 51 have the gasket located between the diaphragm and carburetor body. Install the cover retaining screws and tighten diag. Make sure the deepest end of the bowl is opposite of the inlet needle. The bowl has a small dimple located in the deepest part. The purpose of this dimple is to minimize the chances of the float sticking to the bottom 52 of the bowl caused by stale fuel diag.

On some fixed jet non-adjustable and adjustable DETENT carburetors, a fibered washer is required between the carburetor bowl and the bowl retaining nut. Occasionally, on engines equipped with the dual system carburetor, some rich starting conditions have occurred when the engine is warm. This condition can be corrected by inserting a non-metallic spacer in the center leg of the carburetor, as shown part This spacer is designed to reduce the amount of prime charge in the main 53 nozzle area for better starting under warm engine conditions.

It can only be used on Dual System carburetors and does not lean out the carburetor mixture. To test the unit, assemble the carburetor to the engine, leaving the fuel line from the pump off. Use a different fuel tank remotely placed above the carburetor to provide gravity fuel flow to the carburetor inlet to run the engine while testing the pump. Make sure fuel is available in both fuel tanks and that the original fuel tank's fuel line is connected to the fuel pump inlet. Place the pump outlet line in a proper draining receptacle.

With the pulse line connected from the engine crankcase to the pump and the engine running, a definite fuel flow should result at the pump outlet. If the flow is erratic or intermittent, the pump needs repair or replacement. Final Checks Before reinstalling a newly overhauled carburetor, pre-set the main mixture adjustment screw, the idle mixture adjustment screw and the idle speed adjustment screw.

This Standard Service Carburetor helps to reduce dealer inventories. Standard Service Carburetors are built in both float and diaphragm versions. The parts from the original carburetor that are necessary to make a standard service carburetor are: choke shaft, shutter and spring, throttle lever and spring, fuel fitting, idle adjustment screw and spring. If any or all of these old parts are worn or damaged, replace each part with a new service part to assure proper function and prevent engine damage.

Use the diagrams on the next page as a guide to facilitate the correct installation of parts diag. Use the parts manual to obtain the same fuel inlet fitting that was installed in the original carburetor.

Install the fuel fitting in the new carburetor body in the same position as on the original carburetor. Press it in until it bottoms out. Use a pliers or vise to remove the plastic part of the inlet fitting.

Remove the choke shutter screw from the original carburetor and remove the choke shaft. Observe the position of the ends of the choke return spring if one is present.

Some chokes turn clockwise and some turn counterclockwise, note the position of the choke shaft prior to removal from the old carburetor. If a choke stop spring is present on the new carburetor and is not used on the old carburetor, cut it off with a side cutter or pull it out using a pliers.

Test the action of choke shaft to make sure it moves freely and easily and does not bind in either open or closed position. If binding occurs, loosen the shutter screw; reposition the shutter and tighten the screw. Remove the throttle lever and spring and file off the peened end of the throttle shaft until the lever can be removed.

Install the throttle spring and lever on the new carburetor with the self-tapping screw furnished. If dust seals are furnished, install them under the return spring. Remove the screw assembly from the original carburetor and install it in the new carburetor.

Turn it in until it contacts the throttle lever. This chapter includes governor assembly and linkage illustrations to aid in governor or speed control assembly. Tecumseh 4 cycle engines are equipped with mechanical type governors.

Changes in engine R. The throttle is opened when the engine R. The shape of the governor weights force the governor spool to lift.

The governor rod maintains contact with the governor spool due to the governor spring tension. Engine problems where the governor is suspected to be the cause, may actually be the result of other engine system problems. Hunting engine R. Engine overspeeding either with or without throttle movement must be corrected immediately before serious engine damage occurs. Use the following procedure to diagnose a suspected governor problems. If the engine runs wide open faster than normal , shut the engine off immediately.

Check the condition of the external governor shaft, linkage, governor spring, and speed control assembly for breakage, stretching or binding. Correct or replace binding or damaged parts. Follow the governor adjustment procedure and reset the governor - see "Service" in this chapter. Run the engine. Be ready to shut the engine off if an overspeed problem still exists. If the problem persists, the engine will require disassembly to inspect the governor gear assembly for damage, binding, or wear.

See Chapter 9 under "Disassembly Procedure" to disassemble the engine. Remove the governor gear assembly. Repair or replace as necessary. Try to stabilize the engine R. If the engine R. See "Service" governor adjustment procedure in this chapter. If the problem persists after the governor adjustment, check the engine R.

The R. If the R. Check the governor shaft or linkages for binding, wear, or improper hookup. Check the governor spring for adequate tension. Rotate the clamp in a direction that will force the throttle shaft open and allow the governor follower arm to rest on the governor spool. Hold the lever and clamp in this position while tightening the screw diag. The clamp must be removed from the governor rod and turned to the same position as the original engine. Hook the solid link and spring to the governor lever and position the clamp on the governor rod.

Follow the above governor adjustment procedure to complete the short block governor set-up. Units built after use the normal governor set up procedure. On older style governor assemblies, the retaining ring must be removed to allow the spool or gear to slide off the shaft. Newer style governor shafts 3 - 6.

If the gear requires replacement, the governor shaft will have to be removed. Grip the original spool in a vise and use a twisting and pulling motion on the flange until the spool is free. Install the new spool by starting it on the shaft and then turning the flange over.

This will allow the weights to hang in the proper position. Place the spool on a solid surface and push on the flange until the spool seats. The governor weights must be in position under the spool after installation. Clamp the shaft in a vise and pound gently on the flange with a wooden or plastic mallet to remove the 9 shaft.

GEAR 3. To install a new shaft, first assemble the gear and SHIM washer on the shaft. Start the shaft into the hole with a few taps from a soft faced hammer. Press the shaft in until a shim, part just becomes snug [.

Remove the retaining ring, spool, gear assembly, and ECH90 washers. ECV H 30, 35 2. Clamp the shaft in a vise and pound gently on the HS 40, 50 flange with a wooden or plastic mallet to remove the LAV 35 Mounting flange to Top shaft. LEV all 1. TVM all Mounting flange to Top 3. Start the new shaft into the shaft boss by tapping V 50, 60, 70 1. VH 50, 60, 70 Refer to the chart at right for the proper shaft exposed Mounting flange to Top HH , 1.

Add a drop of red Loctite and press the VH governor shaft to the proper depth using a press or a Wipe the extra Loctite off after installation diag. H 50, 60, 70 Mounting flange to Shoulder HH 60, 70 1. Reassemble the governor and install the retaining HM 70, 80, 11 ring. Many different types of speed controls and linkage are used for O. Linkage attachment points are best recorded or marked prior to disassembly.

This assures the correct placement during reassembly. The solid link is always connected from the outermost hole in the governor lever to the throttle in the carburetor. The link with the governor spring attached is connected between the control lever and the lower hole in the governor lever.

Horizontal engines use one location non-adjustable speed control brackets. Most vertical engines use an adjustable speed control bracket mounted above the carburetor. The ignition ground out switch, idle R. Vertical shaft engines must have the speed control bracket aligned when installing. To align the control bracket, use the following steps.

Loosen the two screws on the top of the panel. HOLE 2. Move the control lever to full wide open throttle position and install a wire or aligning pin through the hole in the top of the panel, the hole in the choke actuating lever, and the hole in the choke diag. With the components aligned, tighten the two screws on the control panel. The following pages illustrate common linkage attachment. Whenever the carburetor or the governor linkage is removed or replaced, the engine R.

Use the speed adjustment tool part as illustrated in diag. Place the adjustment tool on the high speed tab and move the tab to achieve the correct engine speed. TOOL Place a pin through the two holes, place the equipment throttle control to the wide open position, hook the bowden cable end in the control as shown, and tighten the cable housing clamp.

In this position, the gap of. Use tool part to adjust the high speed engine R. NOTE: Some engines use nylon bushings on the throttle and choke linkage hook-up points to extend the life of the linkage and to enhance the stability of the governor system. Make sure they are in good condition and in place. Place the slot on the straight end of tool number onto the high speed adjustment tab as pictured. TYPE This system will be found starting on production models, and will not retrofit onto older engines.

It is designed to allow the governor to regulate the low and high speeds of the engine. The high speed is adjusted at the top screw of the override lever; to increase R.

The low speed is adjusted at the bottom screw of the override lever; to increase R. Next set the non-governed idle by pushing the bottom of the governor lever away from the control brackets, so the throttle lever contacts the idle speed screw. Hold the lever in this position and turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise to increase or counterclockwise to decrease engine idle speed. The setting on the carburetor screw should be set RPM below the governed idle setting.

If improperly adjusted, the engine could experience an over lead condition. Rewind starters used on vertical shaft Tecumseh engines are top mount horizontal pull style or side mount vertical pull style. Horizontal shaft engines use side mounted starters which can be mounted to pull either vertically or horizontally.

All rewind starters except the vertical pull style turn the engine over by engaging a dog s into the starter cup attached to the engine flywheel. The vertical pull starter engages the starter gear into the ring gear of the flywheel to turn the engine over. All starters are spring loaded to retract the dog s or starter gear when the engine speed exceeds the turning speed of the starter. As the starter rope is pulled, the starter pulley rotates on the center pin.

The starter dog s is pinned or pocketed in the pulley hub and extends outward when the pulley's rotation forces the starter dog s to contact the ears on the retainer. The retainer ears act as a ramp to fully extend the starter dog s. The fully extended starter dog s locks in contact with notches in the starter cup. When the engine fires and the rotational speed of the starter cup exceeds the starter pulley, the starter dog s disengages from the starter cup. The starter dog spring s returns the starter dog s to the disengaged position.

The recoil spring turns the starter pulley in the opposite direction, retracting the starter rope until the handle contacts the stop. Starter related problems will require the starter to be removed from the engine to diagnose the cause.

Visually inspect the starter dog s , starter cup, retainer, springs, rope, washers, and the starter pulley for wear or breakage. Use one of the following procedures that applies to your application, to disassemble, repair, and assemble the starter. Always consult the Tecumseh Master Parts Manual for the correct replacement parts. Rope replacement should be done using the correct part number replacement rope or braided rope of the correct diameter and length.

Consult the Tecumseh Master Parts Manual to obtain the correct part number, length, and size required. Use the following rope chart to convert a numbered rope to a fractional diameter for bulk rope use. Some applications require longer lengths. The rope ends should be cauterized by burning with a match and wiping the rope end with a cloth while hot. Rope replacement can be done without the starter being disassembled on vertical pull starters that have "V" 3 notches in the bracket. Use the following procedure for rope replacement.

Remove the starter assembly from the engine. Turn the pulley until the staple in the pulley lines up with the "V" notch. Pry out the staple with a small screwdriver and remove the original rope diag. Turn the pulley counterclockwise to fully wind the starter return spring until tight. Allow the pulley to 4 unwind until the hole in the pulley lines up with the "V" notch. Make sure the rope and knot do not protrude from the knot cavity and bind the pulley ROPE rotation.

Remove the starter handle if the retainer is a complete circle design. Remove the staple and old retainer. Install the starter handle and tie a left hand knot to secure the handle. After removing the rewind assembly from the engine blower housing, release the tension on the rewind spring. This can be done by removing the starter handle and carefully allowing the rope to unwind in the starter housing assembly. Place a 1" 25 mm deep well socket under the retainer. Set the rewind on a bench, supported on the socket.

The stamped steel center pin is driven out from the top, inside the center hole. Move the punch around while driving the pin to help keep the pin straight. Remove the brake spring, spring retainer, washers, and pulley assembly diag. All components in need of service should be replaced.

Reverse the disassembly procedure. Discard the old plastic washer. On the stamped steel starter ROPE the center pin should be driven in until it contacts the shoulder in the starter body. Untie the temporary knot and allow the rope to recoil. After removing the rewind assembly from the engine 4.

Use a small Phillips screwdriver or similar tool to pry blower housing, remove the starter handle by first the retainer legs apart and lift out the retaining wedge pulling a length of rope out using the handle, tying a or steel clip on newer style starters. Pinch the legs of the retainer together and pull on untying the knot in the handle or prying out the staple.

Untie the temporary knot and slowly allow the rope 6. Remove the pulley assembly from the recoil housing. Remove the decal from the center of the starter housing.

If replacing the starter rope, see Step 8. Extreme caution should be used when working with springs. Install a new recoil spring if necessary by pushing the new spring out of the holder into the pulley cavity while aligning the outside spring hook into the deep notch in the pulley.

Push the spring cover in until seated. Pinch the two legs of the plastic retainer together and start into the center shaft hole. Rotate the retainer so the two tabs on the bottom of the part fit between the dog and pulley hub left side 9 of the dog. Push the retainer in until the leg prongs pop out of the center shaft. Turn the starter over and snap the locking tab between the retainer legs, replace the top decal. Wind the starter pulley counterclockwise four or five turns to pre-load the recoil spring and thread the rope through the starter housing eyelet.

Pull enough rope through to tie a temporary knot in the rope. Reattach the starter handle to the rope using a left-hand knot. Lift the pulley out of the starter housing. Place the rewind spring and keeper assembly into the pulley. Turn the pulley to lock into position. A light coating of non-freeze grease should be applied on the spring. Place the pulley assembly into the starter housing. The starter dog spring s must KNOT hold the dog s in against the pulley.

Tighten to 65 - 75 in. Older models that use a 10 - 32 retainer screw can be replaced with a larger 12 - 28 screw part A. The center screw torque on cast aluminum starters is to in.

Skip this step if not applicable. Apply tension to the recoil spring by winding the pulley counterclockwise until it becomes tight, then allow the pulley to unwind until the hole in the pulley lines up with the rope eyelet in the starter housing. A left-hand knot should be tied on the end of the rope to secure the handle. Position nylon sleeve in aligning recess in the crankshaft. START two mounting screws in blower housing 90o apart.

PULLEY With sleeve centered in crankshaft, gently push the starter in place, tighten the two mounting screws, insert and tighten the other two screws. Remove the handle and relieve the starter spring tension by allowing the rope to slip past the rope clip.

Remove the spring cover by carefully removing the two small screws. Carefully take out the spring. Remove the center hub screw and the spring hub. EA AN. VE R SN. Lift off the gear and pulley assembly.

Disassemble I. Insert the rope through the starter pulley. Assemble the gear, pulley, washer, and snap ring. The rope clip must fit tightly onto the bracket. The raised section fits into the hole in the bracket diag. Install the hub and hub screw. Torque the hub screw to 45 - 55 in. Install the return spring if necessary.

A replacement spring is installed by placing the spring and its retainer over the top of the pulley and pushing the spring out of the retainer into the pulley's recessed area. Install the spring cover and the cover screws. Wind the rope onto the pulley by slipping it past the rope clip. When the rope is fully wound on the pulley, wind the pulley assembly two additional turns to put tension on the spring.

Remove the handle if necessary by prying out the small staple in the handle with a screwdriver. Place the starter bracket on the top of a deep well socket that is large enough to receive the head of the center pin. Use an arbor press to drive out the center pin. Rotate the spring capsule strut until it is aligned with the legs of the brake spring. This will keep the capsule in the wound position diag.

Slip the sheave out of the bracket. The spring capsule can now be removed KNOT from the gear sheave. Wind the rope on the sheave assembly clockwise, viewing the gear from the gear side of the sheave. Reinstall the brake spring, being careful not to spread the spring more than necessary.

Install the spring capsule, making sure the starter spring end hooks on the gear hub diag. Wind the spring four full turns and align the brake END spring legs with the strut as shown. Insert the pin in the strut diag.

If the starter is equipped with a locking or delay pawl and spring, make sure these are in place before grasping the gear and spring capsule assembly and sliding it into the bracket. Make sure the legs of the brake spring are positioned in the slots of the bracket. Remove the pin and the strut will rotate clockwise against the bracket diag. Insert the new center pin by pressing or driving the 18 19 pin firmly in place. Reinstall the starter assembly on the engine diag.

The electrical system consists of three main elements: a battery, a starting circuit, and a charging circuit. The battery is part of both the starting and charging circuit.

The battery should be checked before going into any extensive starter or charging system checks. If a battery has a shorted cell, overcharging can result, and the regulator or rectifier may appear to be at fault. If a cell has an open or high resistance connection, the electric starter operation will be affected. The power source used to provide the energy to turn an electric starter motor on Tecumseh engines is either volt A. The 12 volt battery models require a charging system to maintain proper battery charge.

The starting circuit includes the battery, battery cables, starter or ignition switch, safety switches, and an electric starter motor. The charging system consists of alternator charge coils, rectifiers or diodes, regulator, ignition switch, flywheel magnets, and a battery. All engines that have a charging system will use a combination of some or all of these features. The repelling magnetic forces cause the armature to rotate, moving the drive pinion laterally on the splined armature shaft, meshing the starter pinion gear with the flywheel ARMATURE ring gear.

After the switch is released, the starting circuit is opened and the armature coasts to a stop. A small anti-drift spring holds the pinion in the disengaged position diag. The permanent magnets in the flywheel have a magnetic field in which the lines of magnetic force run from the North Pole to the South Pole. As the flywheel rotates and the position of the magnets change, the direction of the magnetic field changes or alternates. The alternating coils are wound in different directions to allow current to flow as an A.

This is acceptable in certain applications. In certain 3 situations it is necessary to make use of the entire A.

Current flows through a diode when the anode is more positive than the cathode. The cathode end of the diode should point toward the battery when diode is used between a charging system and a battery. The single diode allows only the positive half of the A. It does not allow the negative portion through. The full wave rectifier makes use of the entire A.

The chemical energy produced by the dissimilar metals of the battery plates provides a electrical potential that is used D. The wires used in Tecumseh electrical systems are copper stranded with an insulated coating around the copper strands.

CONDITION: All wiring must be fully insulated between connection points, securely fastened and free of foreign material such as rust and corrosion at the connection points.

This is especially important in the use of batteries where much of the potential may be lost due to loose connections or corrosion. Remember to check the insulation on the wire. All it takes is a pin hole to "ground out" on the engine or frame.

This is of special concern when moisture or water is present. This may cause the engine to run erratically or be impossible to start.

Wire diameter is measured in increments of gauge numbers. As the gauge number of the wire increases, the wire diameter decreases in size 18 diag. The starter circuit wiring must be rated at 6 or lower gauge number. The charging circuit wiring must be rated at 16 or 6 lower gauge number 20 amp system requires 14 or lower gauge number.

The magneto circuit wiring ground circuit must be rated at 18 or lower gauge number. Tecumseh's standard engine wiring color codes, effective August, are as follows: Code Product Yellow - Alternator A. Leads Red - Alternator D. When a magnet is moved past the coils, a current is induced in the coils.

In general, the greater the number of coils, the greater the output of the alternator diag. It is completely independent from the alternator coils. This is accomplished by using a diode or rectifier. The regulator prevents overcharging of the battery and the rectifier changes the alternating current to direct current diag. All metals are conductors of electricity, but some are better conductors than others. Silver, copper and gold are some of the better known conductors.

As the temperature of the conductor increases, the resistance increases. Some of the more common materials that are insulators are glass, plastic, rubber, ceramics and porcelain.

Before going into extensive checks, be sure to perform the more basic checks first, such as: 1. Battery defective or not charged. Corroded or loose terminals and connections, or wrong connections. Cracked insulation or broken wires. A wire "grounding out" in the system. Defective switch. Operator presence system functioning properly. Starter will not Intermittent Starter turns at turn starter operation low rpms or stalls under load. Check wiring, Isolate engine connections, NO from the YES safety switches, equipment, starter switch does engine turn over?

Reinstall spark Adjust if Internal engine plug, does necessary. Does failure or flywheel engine bind on the engine turn interference NO YES over without compression stroke? Repair or replace Internal engine electric starter failure, repair or replace engine. Identify the charging system used by model and specification number or visually check the electrical plug. Consult the Technician's Handbook or Electrical Troubleshooting booklet for test procedure for the charging system used.

Check diodes, Alternator coil replace if no failure, replace continuity exists or coil assy. Check fuses, replace as necessary.

Check switches, wiring, or lights for shorts. Check the power source using an electrical tester and follow the testers recommended procedure.

Make sure the battery meets the minimum battery voltage requirements found in the original equipment manufacturer's service manual. Check the electric starter terminal for the required voltage 12v D. Check wiring, connections, fuses, ignition or starter switch, safety switches, or solenoid for continuity using a ohmmeter or a continuity light. Remove all equipment loads from the engine. Take off all drive belts, chains, and couplers to isolate the engine from the equipment it is powering.

Try to turn the engine over using the recoil assembly if equipped. Check for proper lubrication oil level and viscosity , starter gear and flywheel ring gear interference. If no problem is discovered, the problem is an internal failure. If the engine binds only on the compression stroke, check the engine valve clearance per the specification table in Chapter If the valve clearance is within the specifications, the camshaft compression release may require replacement. Valve clearance not within the listed specifications will require either resetting or grinding the valve stems to obtain the proper clearance.

If the engine turns over freely, the electric starter should be disassembled and checked. If the preceding steps fail to correct the problem, the engine will require disassembly to find the mechanical failure.

See Chapter 9 under "Disassembly Procedure". The following pages will show wiring diagrams of several Tecumseh charging systems. The charging system used on the engine is best identified by obtaining the engine model number and the specification number on the engine. Consult a Tecumseh dealer or a parts manual to identify the charging system.

To make many of the tests it is necessary to run the engine and measure alternator output with a voltmeter. When making voltage tests with the engine running, it is not necessary to take readings at all the listed R. Checking at one of the speeds is sufficient. In some cases an open circuit D. Each charging system has its own testing procedure. Test the charging system using the applicable procedure on the following pages. Connect a voltmeter across the battery. The voltmeter should read the battery voltage.

Start the engine. With the engine running, there should be an increase in the voltage reading. If there is no change in the voltage reading, the alternator is defective and should be replaced. Connect a wire lead from the single pin connector coming out of the engine to one terminal of a No.

Connect another wire lead to the other terminal of the bulb and run to a good ground on the engine. Start the engine and test the circuit using the A. With the engine running, minimum A. If minimum values are noted, the alternator is okay. If less than the minimum values, the alternator is defective.

See Chapter 9 for "Disassembly Procedure". Connect a No. If the 13 minimum values are not noted, the alternator or A. Continuity should exist during one of the two following tests.

No continuity should exist while performing the opposite test. If continuity exists during both tests, or if no continuity A. Connect positive probe of meter to both A. Connect the negative probe of meter to both A.

Connect the negative probe of meter to black output lead. Connect the positive probe of meter to both A. If the D. Start engine and test circuit using an A. If the minimum values are noted, alternator is okay. If the minimum values are not noted, the alternator or A. RED is good check each diode it services as requested see D. Volts R. Volts A. RED D. NOTE: These minimum numbers should be obtained by your meter and will often be higher.

To check out the alternator, check the A.